Realejo: Heritage, Culture, and Gastronomy in the Heart of Granada
El Realejo is one of the oldest and most historic neighborhoods in Granada, situated at the foot of the Alhambra. Formerly known as Garnata al-Yahud, it served as the Jewish quarter from the 8th century until the arrival of the Catholic Monarchs, who, after conquering the city in 1492, destroyed much of the Jewish community and renamed the area Realejo. Today, the neighborhood retains its historical charm, blending its past with a vibrant cultural and social life, making it a popular destination for both locals and tourists. We encourage you to wander through its labyrinth of steep, narrow streets and lively main avenues filled with shops, such as Calle Pavaneras, Santa Escolástica, and Calle Molinos. In Realejo, you can find emblematic sites that are vestiges of the three communities that have shaped Granada’s history: Jews, Arabs, and Christians.
Unique Buildings and Monuments
The Realejo neighborhood has witnessed centuries of history. During the Muslim rule, Jews and Arabs coexisted here, alternating periods of peaceful living with moments of tension. Despite the destruction of the Jewish quarter after the conquest of Granada, its legacy is still felt in the surviving alleyways and buildings that have stood the test of time. The residents of the neighborhood are still referred to as “greñúos,” according to one explanation, due to the curly locks worn by their ancient Sephardic neighbors.
Among the notable corners is the Corrala de Santiago, a unique building located on Calle Santiago that currently serves as a residence for professors and researchers invited by the University of Granada. Additionally, the Corrala hosts numerous cultural activities, making it a fundamental space for the academic and cultural life of the city.
Another emblematic site in Realejo is Campo del Príncipe, a large square that was known as Campo de Abulnest during the Muslim era. In 1497, the Catholic Monarchs leveled the square to celebrate the wedding of Prince Juan to Margarita of Flanders. Later, Campo del Príncipe was used for bullfights and other public spectacles. Today, it is a gathering place for locals, especially on weekends due to the multitude of terraces it hosts.
Near Campo del Príncipe stands the Iglesia de San Cecilio, built in 1534 on the site of an ancient Mozarabic church. It is one of the most important temples in Granada, not only for its historical value but also because it houses the relics of the city’s patron saint, San Cecilio.
If you come from the area of Plaza Nueva or Gran Vía, the entrance to Realejo is located behind the monument of Isabel la Católica with Cristóbal Colón. A few meters later, between Calle Colcha y Calle Pavaneras, we find the statue of Yehuda Ibn Tibon, one of the great Jewish intellectuals of the Middle Ages: a physician, philosopher, poet, and translator. His work was fundamental in preserving and transmitting significant philosophical and scientific texts, which he translated from Arabic to Hebrew, allowing ideas from the Arab and Greek worlds to reach Jewish culture and later European thought. His statue invites us to reflect on Granada’s multicultural past and the importance of knowledge in fostering coexistence among different civilizations.
One of the most significant monuments is the Cuarto Real de Santo Domingo, an architectural gem from the 13th century that was originally a qubba, or reception room, belonging to a pre-Alhambra Nasrid palace. This space has become a center of cultural interest and can be visited to appreciate the beauty of Nasrid architecture.
El Palacio de los Condes de Gabia is another point of interest in Realejo. This noble house from the early 19th century currently houses the Delegation of Culture of the Granada Provincial Council and hosts contemporary art exhibitions and other cultural events, reaffirming the neighborhood’s commitment to culture. The palace features a striking main façade with a stone entrance topped with a heraldic shield. Once inside, visitors can admire a patio with Corinthian columns made of white marble and beautifully carved bases. This space also houses the José Guerrero Center Archive and an event hall where activities such as film screenings, conferences, and workshops are held.
El Casa de los Tiros, a Renaissance building, stands out not only for its architectural value but also for the stories its walls have witnessed over the centuries. It is currently a museum that reflects the city’s history through its collection of art and historical objects. The name of the house comes from the cannons that protrude from its façade, remnants of its military past. Built in the 16th century, it was acquired by Gil Vázquez de Rengifo, one of the knights who participated in the Conquest of Granada alongside the Catholic Monarchs. Later, it belonged to the Granada Venegas lineage. Originally, the house was part of the wall of the Alfareros neighborhood, which explains its fortress-like appearance. The façade is adorned with five sculptures representing Greek heroes Hercules, Theseus, Mercury, Jason, and Hector, all in a battle-ready stance. Inside, the room known as La Cuadra Dorada features a ceiling decorated with Renaissance armor and murals. The room’s name refers to the golden reflections of the coffered ceiling, made up of large planks adorned with bas-reliefs and texts. These structures rest on beams and bases carved with figures of historical characters, forming a design reminiscent of a chessboard, honoring those who fought for the unification of Spain. Additionally, the frescoes on the walls depict heroes and warriors, while the tondos showcase reliefs of ancient heroines.
Another point of interest is the Casa-Museo de Manuel de Falla, dedicated to the famous composer from Cádiz who lived in Granada for many years. This small museum preserves personal belongings, sheet music, and furniture from his home, offering a glimpse into the life and work of one of Spain’s most influential composers.
We cannot forget to mention the Hotel Alhambra Palace, an iconic establishment that offers breathtaking views of the city and the Sierra Nevada. The hotel crowns the upper part of the neighborhood and stands as a visible landmark from numerous places in Granada.
This historic hotel, inaugurated in 1910 by King Alfonso XIII, is a magnificent fusion of architectural styles ranging from Neo-Moorish to Art Deco, reflecting the region’s rich cultural heritage. Considered the oldest five-star hotel in Spain and the second oldest hotel in the country, its creation was driven by the Duke of San Pedro de Galatino, a visionary figure who anticipated the rise of tourism as a major industry, with the Alhambra and Sierra Nevada as its primary attractions in Granada.
The hotel’s construction was initially designed by English architect Mr. Lowet, with construction led by Modesto Cendoya, who served as the conservation architect of the Alhambra from 1907 to 1923. The interior of the Alhambra Palace is a showcase of ornamentation, dominated by the Neo-Moorish style, featuring a profusion of mirrors, mosaics, muqarnas, arches, and coffered ceilings.
A fascinating episode in the hotel’s history occurred in 1936 during the outbreak of the Spanish Civil War. Just days before the conflict began, the duke passed away. The widow, Doña Fernanda de Salabert y Arteaga, donated the hotel to the military forces, which transformed it into a field hospital for three years. The building’s rooftops were marked with red crosses, allowing it to escape the aerial bombings that ravaged the city during that period. After the war, the hotel reopened in 1942, marking the beginning of its most glamorous era, leading it to be known as the legendary Alhambra Palace Hotel we recognize today.
Since its opening, the Alhambra Palace has been a symbol of elegance and sophistication, hosting numerous international celebrities who visit Granada. Without the need to stay there, visitors can access the lobby and enjoy a coffee or lunch on its terrace with spectacular views.
Culture and Gastronomy
Realejo is also a vibrant neighborhood full of life. Campo del Príncipe, Plaza Carlos Cano, and Calle Varela and their surroundings are known for their bars and restaurants, where visitors can savor the famous Granada tapas. The nightlife in Realejo is lively and varied, with a mix of traditional and modern establishments, making the neighborhood a perfect place for dining out or enjoying a drink.
With its blend of history, culture, and everyday life, Realejo continues to reflect the rich diversity that defines Granada. Whether exploring its historic monuments, enjoying its gastronomic offerings, or simply strolling through its charming streets, this neighborhood is a must-visit during your time in the city.
How to Get to Realejo
Reaching Realejo is easy. You can walk from Plaza Isabel la Católica or descend from the Alhambra via Cuesta del Realejo or Calle Carril de San Cecilio. You can also use public transportation; bus lines C30, C32, and C35 provide good connections to the neighborhood from other parts of the city.